Royal Air Squadron Visit to Dinan

The sun was shining brightly on Friday, 23 June as one by one 23 aircraft of the Royal Air Squadron began to arrive. Some in time for lunch, at the newly opened airport restaurant, others only just making the bus!

Dinan is a very beautiful and atmospheric medieval town crammed with half-timbered buildings dating from the C13 and C14, with cobbled rambling streets interspersed with numerous cafes, bars, restaurants, butchers, bakers, florists, artisans, craftsmen and weavers. A feast for the eyes.

Dinan’s history revolves around the feuds with England, most notably the Duke of Lancaster’s invasion of 1357 where he encountered the local hero Bertrand de Guesclin. Bertrand was known as a fearless knight and certainly got the better of Lancaster. A bronze statue commemorates him in the Place du Champs, the battlefield where he died, now the market square and car park!

We checked into the Hotel du Chateau an old and simple hotel opposite the Chateau du Duchesse Anne and took virtually every room in the hotel. After settling in and a wander about the old town we ended up at the Auberge du Pelican for dinner, eventually spilling outside for a glass or two of cognac.

The next day we were met by our guides Anne-Sophie and Claudine who had kindly stepped into the breach at the last moment and took us on a walking tour of Dinan pointing out the various places of interest on the way. Whilst descending the Rue du Petite Port, a lane that descends steeply from the old town to the picturesque River Rance and Old Port, Claudine offered to show us her house and was surprised when at least half the group traipsed through the house and sat down in the garden. A little mix up as this was not Chateau Kerrosen, our next destination!

Chateau Kerrosen is a beautiful house once lived in by Princess Radziwill and home to the Cotrel family, and now owned by Philippe’s sister Marie-Christine. Drinks and canapes had been arranged on tables under the shady trees in the garden, which was a welcome relief from the heat. Marie-Christine told us the history of the chateau and her plans for the garden designs. Recharged with a glass of chilled rose or beer and some delicious nibbles, we were taken back to Dinan and a bit of free time before our tour of the Chateau of Duchesse Anne, a large medieval stone castle opposite the hotel. On the top of the tower in the blistering heat we were told the history of the castle which was built in 1382 and forms part of the medieval ramparts surrounding the town. What a relief when we could finally get inside and explore the cool stone rooms and tunnels.

After a quick turnaround it was off to the Mairie for a reception with the Mayor, Didier Lechien, who is married to Cathy, another of Philippe Cotrel’s sisters. We were surrounded by huge paintings in a large and airy room and were amply supplied with delicious canapes and cider which is famous in the area. The Mayor’s speech was followed by one from our Commodore and books and an RAS plaque were distributed.

Our final event was dinner at the 3 Lunes. We sat in the little garden with a glass of champagne and some nibbles, including mini Charles III coronation quiches, served by a delightful man who had worked on Concorde for 25 years and proudly wore his Concorde badge. After a superb dinner Cathy and Didier invited those who could still stand for a cognac at their house. What a lovely surprise was in store for those who came – the house was a riot of carefully coordinated colour with lovely paintings, tapestries and sculptures.

Back to the hotel, and all too soon it was back to the aircraft and homeward bound.